Jennifer Varner

If you’re thinking about coming to Koh Tao alone, safety is probably the first thing you Google. I get it. Before I ever moved here, I did the exact same thing — scrolling through articles, trying to decode headlines, wondering what the island actually  feels like. I live in a small hut overlooking Shark Bay in Chalok, and this island is my everyday life — not a quick stop on a backpacking route. I walk these roads. I snorkel Shark Bay alone. I go to the market. I see how the island operates...

If you’ve been researching Koh Tao and feeling slightly overwhelmed, I understand. This small island in the Gulf of Thailand is just 21 square kilometers, yet it has an outsized online presence. There are strong opinions, dramatic stories, glowing dive reviews, and enough conflicting advice to make any solo traveler pause. When I first visited Koh Tao over four years ago, I remember reading a travel book that warned it wasn’t safe and suggested skipping it entirely. But being a strong-willed...

On the southern tip of Koh Tao lies Shark Bay — a crescent of turquoise water known for its resident sea turtles. It’s one of the few places in Thailand where you can still swim alongside these wild creatures in their natural habitat.